Pauly383
Frequent Wheeler 
Regular dude.
Down in the AZ
Posts: 125
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Post by Pauly383 on Feb 15, 2007 12:46:15 GMT -5
Hey Harley . I have my flattop knuckle and arm down for machining . Gotta question or two for you . Are you still lowsteer , or did you go highsteer ? Can I get a measurement on your draglink ? Do you hit the springs ? I will be running both 70's disc brake knuckles , tie rod from the top like an old d44 , a Toybox arm I got from Marv until I can afford two arms to do highsteer . ( and , gulp , I am losing my sway bar  ) . |
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Post by rhino105 on Feb 15, 2007 13:14:59 GMT -5
Paul, I wouldn't worry about losing the sway bar. My springs are much softer than yours and I pulled my swaybar off. It does have a little more body roll, but it is almost not noticable.
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Post by I Am Batman on Feb 15, 2007 13:38:16 GMT -5
who is doin your machining? I know a guy..
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Post by az-k5 on Feb 15, 2007 14:01:47 GMT -5
who is doin your machining? I know a guy.. Kyle thinks he found a new west side shipping program  Paul, Hoss is running low steer. His K5 is in my sideyard till he gets a place down here this summer. Don't worry about high steer. You will have to get a new tie rod for high steer anyway. Just get a beefy low steer tierod. Heck I am low steer on my D60. I don't want to stress the upper portion of the knuckles. |
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Pauly383
Frequent Wheeler
Regular dude.
Down in the AZ
Posts: 125
|
Post by Pauly383 on Feb 15, 2007 14:15:44 GMT -5
who is doin your machining? I know a guy.. MaxPf on CK5 ( pretty white K5 that you guys kept cleaner than mine on the luge bypass ) is doing them on spare time a work for 35 bucks . |
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Pauly383
Frequent Wheeler
Regular dude.
Down in the AZ
Posts: 125
|
Post by Pauly383 on Feb 15, 2007 14:19:26 GMT -5
Paul, Hoss is running low steer. His K5 is in my sideyard till he gets a place down here this summer. Don't worry about high steer. You will have to get a new tie rod for high steer anyway. Just get a beefy low steer tierod. Heck I am low steer on my D60. I don't want to stress the upper portion of the knuckles. Cool . I have a spare tie rod thats not so bent , and for storage costs ( hehe ) I am taking the nice the nice straight one off Kurts former Sub . I got a steering box to rape for the shaft so I don't have to change pump fitting to match the hoses . Missing draglink , and pitman arm , and new BJ's . Was thinking making a Draglink for cheaper by cutting/sleeving . So , is it possible to get a measurment on the tie rod ? |
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Post by az-k5 on Feb 15, 2007 14:30:53 GMT -5
So , is it possible to get a measurment on the tie rod ? Yes, I own a tape measure. I will get one for you when I get home tonight. You have a 4" lift? A cut and sleeved straight one isn't a horrible way to go. |
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Post by hoss50 on Feb 15, 2007 16:30:06 GMT -5
Yes, still lowsteer and I will never go highsteer. Get a beefy tierod and you are set with lowsteer. As far as clearing a straight draglink with 4" lift you might but you might not. My draglink is bent for clearence and I think I barely clear the engine crossmember. Mike (87GMCJimmy) made a straight draglink work with his but he redrilled his spring perches to move the front axle forward 1" which he said sets the draglink in a sweetspot. I would get a bent draglink if possible.
My draglink does clear my springs. I have a tall arm from Sky (which I highly recommend) but I also have a zero rate which is why I needed the tall arm.
Getting your tierod in and out may be a bitch. You may have to use a highlift to pick the front of the truck up some so the tierod will clear the springs so you can get it in.
You need to find someone that are wanting to do crossover soon and get the right material to build the components out of. If you can get a someone in on a 20ft stick of 1.5" .250 wall DOM you should make tierods and draglinks out of that. A 20' stick of DOM should make about 2 tierods & 2 draglinks out of that pretty easy & possibly 3 tierods. For ultimate strength on the tierod sleeve the .250 wall with a .120 wall tube and you should be set from ever bending a tierod again. My tierod is 3/8" wall and as far as I can tell I have never bent it.
That stick of DOM won't be cheap but if you can split the cost with someone it will make it somewhat affordable. Do your steering right the first time so you don't have to rebuild the tierod later. Matt did the sleeved stock tierod & he has bent it in several places. Steering is not somewhere to cheap out on especially since you DD the truck & drive it to and from the trail.
Harley
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Post by hoss50 on Feb 15, 2007 16:35:57 GMT -5
Also build your steering with all RH TRE's so you only have to carry 1 spare TRE that will fit in all positions. The TRE part number that I use is ES2234R I believe. They are the 7/8" shank 1ton Chevy ends with the short shanks for strength.
I bought mine at Checker. They are Mcquay Norris with a lifetime warranty.
Tierods are easy to build just pick up some of the DOM & some tube adapters. If you can get away with a straight draglink then it is the same process.
Harley
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Post by 4xcrazy on Feb 18, 2007 21:55:15 GMT -5
and for storage costs ( hehe ) I am taking the nice the nice straight one off Kurts former Sub . Storage costs now eh? is there going to be something replacing it for ease of removal soon? |
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Pauly383
Frequent Wheeler
Regular dude.
Down in the AZ
Posts: 125
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Post by Pauly383 on Feb 19, 2007 10:46:09 GMT -5
[/quote] Storage costs now eh? is there going to be something replacing it for ease of removal soon?[/quote] Yeah , we are gonna sit yu in the engine bay with a stick to each knuckle , and put reigns and a yoke on Nick |
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